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Tavernas, coffee, ouzo -- Athens has maintained some of its relaxed allure; residents sip freddo espressos alfresco and enjoy leisurely lunches in the shade of bitter-orange trees. With its medley of past and present, east and west, it's enchanting to explore in its own right. Get to know the most atmospheric open-air cinemas and drawn up walks around Athen's neighborhoods -- one a leafy suburb, another by the sea. // Designed to be compact and collectable, the Monocle Travel Guides go beyond the traditional touristi beats to make sure visitors get the best out of a city - no matter how short their stay.